Sails for a cruise
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On our first trip around the world, we were very concerned about the life of the sails. We ordered sails from a famous sailmaker with all possible bells and whistles: multi-row seams, large reinforcements, heavy fabric, etc. These sails served us throughout the entire circumnavigation of the world, three years and 30,000 miles, and were still in satisfactory condition upon return.
When we set sail for the second time on a schooner bought from a famous Italian sailing school, it already had sails. They were almost new and we went without much worry. A year later, the sails started to break and we spent more and more of our time sewing up gusts, duplicating seams and applying reinforcements. After three years the gusts became so frequent that we had to throw them away and replace them with new ones.
The moral is, not all sails are the same. There are heavy sails and light sails, regatta sails and cruising sails, and most importantly, there are sails that are well made and badly made.
How to determine if a sail is good or not? What elements determine its durability? What should be done to keep them in good condition? We tried to figure it out based on our experience, the experience of other sailboatsmen and consulting sailors.
Ткань
Fabric makes up 15 to 20 percent of the final cost of a sail. Sewn sails, mainsails and staysails are made from dacron, which may also be called terylene, terital, tergal, depending on the manufacturer. The name changes, but we are talking about the same fabric made from a synthetic fiber with a terrible name (polyethylene glycol terephthalate) and incredibly high characteristics: waterproof, insensitive to cold and high temperatures, moisture resistant, does not mold, does not deform or deform a little. Dacron, fabricmade with the help of the highest technology by a small number of manufacturers with powerful equipment for its production. It comes to sailmakers in large rolls about a meter wide. Sails are sewn from this cloth.
Although the raw material is always the same, the material is not always the same. The density of the texture, the chemical treatment to which the fabric is subjected, and its specific gravity, that is, the thickness, change. The strength of the sail and its ability to withstand loads depends on the specific weight of the fabric. Small sails or for light winds are made of lightweight fabric. Large sails and sails for strong winds will be made of heavy fabric. The specific gravity of the fabric is measured in ounces per square meter: oz/mq
The type of fabric and its thickness must be agreed with the sailmaker. Remember not to skimp on the quality of the fabric because, as we said, it's only 20 percent of the cost, so the savings will be small, while the quality may suffer. Be sure to clearly explain what type of sails you require, that they must be strong, last for many years, resist friction for a long time. Bring a copy of your boat's sail plan to the master so that he has a better idea of what is at stake and discuss your specifics with him.hard requirements. If you're planning to sail around the world, it's only natural to order very heavy fabric sails for added strength and durability, but don't overdo it. Remember that you will also have to work with the sails, if the fabric is too thick, the sails will be heavy, bulky and stiff, it will be difficult to manage them, for example, to take reefs. For each sail made, the master must indicate the maximum wind force that it can withstand and do not forget to change them in time.
Швы, усиления и фурнитура
Here we will touch on the details that are critical for quality. Sewing materials, reinforcements, accessories (threads, armor, steel eyelets, carabiners, leather linings, etc.) account for about 15 percent of the total cost. However, the quality of the sail depends on them, on these details. Sewing a sail, kilometers of seams, sewing on reinforcements, halyard boards, eyelets and protective linings, they distinguish one sail from another.
Let's start with the seams. They literally hold the canvases of the sail together, and it is they who begin to unravel after a few years. In the past, seasoned navigators required that sails be stitched with at least a quadruple seam. Today, according to my friend, the sailmaker, this is not necessary. But in any case, the seams should be at least triple and the cutting of the fabric should be hot so that the edges of the panel do not swing out over time. Let's move on to enhancements. The wind load perceived by the sail is concentrated in its corners. Therefore, as far asapproaching them, the fabric doubles in thickness, then triples, quadruples, etc. Other zones of load concentration are the attachment points of sliders, lath pockets, the reef of shterts, and others.
How many overlays and where to sew is determined by complex calculations, experience and qualifications of the master. We just have to check that the seams in the corners of the sail were of high quality and in sufficient quantity so that the eyelets were made of stainless steel. The sliders of the mainsail are plastic, but at the head and clew corners, which experience the greatest loads, should be metal. Ask for one, or even better, two slings to be sewn on the corners for reinforcement.
Sometimes, out of economy, the reinforcements on the sail are not sewn on, but glued on. This is not good, after a while they will peel off. High-quality sails in friction points also have protective linings, usually made of leather: at the headboard of the mainsail, at the attachment points of sliders or carabiners on the staysail, at the clews. It is very important that these overlays are made with high quality, from high-quality leather, by qualified personnel. And since all these operations are expensive, require attention and time, sailmakers, unless specifically agreed in advancetrying to put them down. Very delicate issue pockets for lat. When the sail is being swept a lot (whether hoisting, lowering, turning, or reefing), the latpockets experience enormous stresses. It is necessary that they be made of very durable material and sewn with multiple seams, thick threads. On the leech, where the pockets are most stressed, they also need to be sheathed and reinforced by hand. The grottoes with through armor deserve special mention. It is more difficult to sew such a sail than a traditional one. Its cost is higher due to the longerarmor, latpockets and the use of carriages. But in compensation, a mainsail with through armor, if sewn well, lasts longer and works better.
The staysail should always be reinforced on both sides where it touches the spreaders when heavily packed. If it also touches the guy, appropriate longitudinal linings are needed. Inside the leech, a bowline, a thin cord, should run along the entire length. When it is stuffed, the leech closes slightly and it is prevented from rinsing in the wind. The mainsail should also have a leech bowline with outward openings at the clews of each reef row. All these details need to be negotiated with the master.ohm. Fortunately sail making is still partly a artisanal business, sailmakers are almost always sailboatsmen themselves or were and are always ready to help. Of course, a standard sail can cost a little less. A stronger and neater finish, wider pads, etc., can increase its cost, but not more than 10-15 percent, but it will avoid serious problems.
Крой
Sails are not just fabric triangles. They are cut and sewn in such a way that a belly is formed, and this profile creates traction, the aerodynamic quality, which is so important on sharp courses. In the past, the sailmaker, only with his instinct and on the basis of experience, determined how and what belly to give the sail. The sails were cut by hand and by eye and sewn together using the secrets of the craft. Today, cutting is trusted by the computer, but to decide how pot-bellied a sail should be, a dialogue between the master and the skipper is still necessary. Simplified prince.n such that the weaker the wind, the more convex the sail should be. Thus, large sails for light winds should be fuller than small sails for bad weather. By the same principle, when the mainsail is in full use, it should be more pot-bellied than when a series of reefs is taken. When taking the second and third rows, the belly should gradually decrease, so that the tightly reefed mainsail is practically flat. Based on how many sails are on the boat and how they are supposed to be used, the optimal shape is selected.
Уход за парусами и их долговечность
Theoretically, a properly used sail can last for many years and tens of thousands of miles. Indeed, usually it is not the wind that breaks the sails, at least when it comes to normal wind, but other factors: ultraviolet rays, vibrations and friction.
Under the influence of sunlight, and in particular ultraviolet radiation, dacron is destroyed and becomes brittle over time. To protect the sails, it is enough to put them in bags immediately upon arrival at the port or harbor. The fabric of a bag or sail cover, even if thin, is able to absorb 100 percent of UV radiation. During the voyage, of course, nothing can be done, but we all spend fewer hours at sea than in the port or at the anchorage.
Friction against metal objects, shrouds, railings, spreaders, abrades and weakens the fabric. Even a new sail, if it rubs against the spreader for just one night of sailing in good seas, will be almost completely worn through in the morning. Therefore, you should try to avoid sail friction and protect all possible wear points. When sailing at night, do not forget to periodically illuminate the sails with a flashlight to make sure everything is in order. This simple precaution will allow you to nip in the bud any possible abrasion. Rinse in the wind in the currentand for a long time also destroys the tissue. A sail that beats in the wind, for example during a turn, experiences much greater loads than those for which it was designed. To reduce the harmful effect, there is nothing else left but to minimize the time for setting and retracting sails, making turns and taking reefs.
Sea water in itself does not harm the sails and can be watered as much as you like. However, salt is very harmful. After numerous bathings in sea water, having dried, the sail is stuffed with microcrystals of salt. The sharp edges of these crystals abrade the fibers of the fabric and seams. Therefore, it is very good to periodically rinse the sails with fresh water, either during a good thunderstorm at the end of summer, or in the absence of it, from a hose on the pier. Humidity and mold, while not affecting the dacron, can harm the leather protectors and the aesthetics of the sails. To avoidIn order to avoid this, it is better not to bag wet sails.
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